Arriving in Nassau
Nassau has a reputation problem. Ask on any cruise forum and someone will tell you to stay on the ship. Ignore them.
That advice comes from people who walked one block of Bay Street, got offered a taxi four times, and gave up. Give Nassau an actual plan and it repays you: a proper historic town, a free beach fifteen minutes from the gangway, hand-carved landmarks from the 1700s, and conch pulled from the water and chopped in front of you. Everything downtown is flat and walkable.
US dollars work everywhere. Everyone speaks English. For a family, this is about the easiest foreign port day on earth.
How it got this way
The real history here is wilder than the films that borrowed it. Founded as Charles Town in 1670 and renamed in 1695, Nassau was so weakly governed by the early 1700s that pirates simply moved in. For roughly twelve years this was the actual Republic of Pirates.
Blackbeard worked out of this harbour. So did Charles Vane, Calico Jack, and the female pirates Anne Bonny and Mary Read. At the peak, pirates outnumbered honest residents.
It took Woodes Rogers, a former privateer turned royal governor, to end the party in 1718. The waterfront walk your ship docks on carries his name, and the motto he left behind translates as 'pirates expelled, commerce restored'. Commerce kept finding Nassau in colourful ways.
The town got rich running guns through the Union blockade during the American Civil War, then got rich again running rum to Florida during Prohibition. The abdicated Edward VIII sat out the Second World War here as governor. Independence from Britain came in 1973.
And the tradition modern Nassau is proudest of is Junkanoo, the explosive Boxing Day and New Year's parade of drums, whistles, cowbells and towering crepe-paper costumes. There's a small museum for it inside the port itself.